Friday, September 25, 2009

Sounds like a sneeze...

Haatso. That's where my host family's home is located. I made it to Ghana at last and is has been an amazing experience. I began to think that the flight would never end but I became excited as I looked out the window of my plane and saw an endless view of peanut butter colored land covered in the texture of dimpes and ripples. I knew we were over north Africa and the desert! The clouds even looked "African," vast, dramatic thermals shooting thousands upon thousands of feet into the air, great plumes like white and grey heads of broccoli. As the sun set, the plane was surrounded with a seemingly impenetrable darkness like black velvet cloth was wrapped around us only broken by the rhythmic pulse of the lights on the plane's wings. Then I knew we were over Accra! Suddenly out of the darkness I began to see a little amber light, then an equally tiny sea green one. Soon, it appeared as if some giant art teacher had spilled amber and light green glitter in spiderweb-like patterns on the ground, shimmering under the moonlight. It looked as veins of copper, light green and amber, running through the black obsidian of darkness that surrounded them.

We landed on a nearly unlit airstrip and I thanked my lucky stars that the pilot was such a good shot! As we decellerated I saw in the inky darkness other planes, blacked out, unlit, sitting off the sides of the airstrip, it was a little unnerving! I got off the plane and walked down the stairs, crossed the short distance to the building and entered Kotoka International Airport. I walked down a hallway lined with big cooling fans and with a wall painted in a beautiful mural. There was a small dispute between a woman and a man about who was next in line at customs, then I went on to baggage claim, which was more than a little chaotic. People grabbed at luggage carts almost frantically and were quick to pull bags off the turnstyle that were not theirs, only to not return them, dooming them to no longer circulate for inspection and retrieval. I finally got my bags on a prized luggage cart and headed through the winding hallways and series of ramps that are so steep, I'm sure they could double as ski ramps if the weather was just right. Suffice it to say, if you don't strain back against the tug of your cart, you will lose it, it will rapidly gather momentum and something or someone is going to be the target of a heavily loaded luggage cart careening out of control down one of Kotoka Airport's now infamous ramps. The tension gets to you I guess because there was a lady and a couple men full out yelling back and forth with some security halfway down one of the ramps. I didn't pause to hear what was going on, I could only hear the late Steve Irwin's voice in my head saying, "Dannnnguh, danguh, danguh!"

My plane landed much, much earlier than was originally scheduled so there was no one at the airport to meet me. I had no phone, of course, and I also had managed to fail to write down the phone numbers for my host family. (Brilliant!) Elizabeth is a Ghanaian woman that is friends with the Owusu family and was there to save my day and my life! She stayed with me and even got other random Ghanaians to lend their mobile phones to call Pastor Charles and subsequently Dr. Odoi, my host father. Outside the airport was a fast introduction to some Ghanaian life, lots of locals eager to lay hands on my bags for any number of reasons. Most want to help you, but will be equally eager to demand payment after providing assistance. Elizabeth was right there with me and didn't leave my side until Dr. Odoi arrived. Thank God! I watched several incidents within five feet of me where there was some disagreement between men who immediately began to try physically fighting. I heard Steve Irwin's warning again and braced for the inevitable involvement in a brawl. This happened twice and dissipated twice and my heart's health has been tested and proven strong enough to survive massive adrenalin doses.

Dr. Odoi greeted me with a smile and a hug. We got into his car and drove through Accra. I was still in some denial about being in Africa, based on what I had seen so far this could be anywhere in the United States, perhaps even Atlanta. Then there was a checkpoint with regular police and military, both with automatic assault rifles, this was definitely not Atlanta. The road was bumpy and only two lanes in some places due to an incredible amount of construction going on to widen the road and improve the infrastructure. Traffic slowed to a crawl for most of the journey and it took a long time but Dr. Odoi said that under ordinary circumstances it should only be a fifteen minute trip. We stopped by the Mall, I couldn't believe there was a ShopRite! All the shops were closed but we'll go back on another day so that I can pick up some basic items like soap and a washcloth.

I got to the Odoi home, which is gated and walled, and was greeted by the resident guardian, Bruno, a small but "fierce Ghanaian" dog who incidentally loves to have his belly rubbed by total strangers. Mrs. Odoi raises chickens in the backyard and as I write to you now, they have been serenading us for umpteen hours just to make sure we know they are there. Yes, yes, we know, you're a chicken and you're there! There are large lizards that pitter-pat across the roof sometimes, something that is fascinating for me but totally lost on the Odoi family who are completely acclimated to the occurrence. The home feels and looks very Morrocan, if I can say such a thing, based soley on my viewing of pictures and movies. I took a bucket bath and got settled in last night. I slept well and woke up to have a great Bible study with my host mother and host sister Dorcas. I then had a great and simple breakfast with my host mother and learned about how she and Dr. Odoi met.

I have to go but I will write more later on. I hope you will all stay in touch with me! Peace and blessings! Join the BLOG, follow me on Twitter and FaceBook and YouTube!

3 comments:

  1. I am so happy you got there safely. It sounds like you are having a memorable experience, even in your first hours there!
    They have a Shop Rite?! GOOD LORD, I pray you don't encounter the type of people who are here, who put their children into the freezers to get "a good turkey!". ;] If you can, you must take pictures of the Shop Rite! Id love to see what it looks like! LOL
    Im glad you are having a wonderful time, Boyd. I knew your host family would welcome you with open arms and hearts and I am sure you are going to develop a life long friendship with them, and they will be like a second family to you.

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  2. hey bro! glad to hear that ur still alive! i kinda expected Accra to be more developed than what you might have anticipated. rest well, you got your work cut out for you! you will do just fine! many blessings and good luck

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